The extraordinary package, created by fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier, is so over-the-top that it is truly worth owning in and of itself. A hand-stitched, red vinyl body suit, tailored to the bottle’s seductive curves, has been laced, from bottom to top, onto the bottle, like an elegant, racy woman’s boot. Given that this is an election year, I should confess I have sinned in my heart looking at this bottle. Oh, and how’s the wine? Big, bold, fruity, assertive, toasty and otherwise in-your-face flavorful. ——P.G.(12/15/2000)—— 91