The 2011 Morey St-Denis Village comes from five parcels, the largest around the house that constitutes 80-90% of the blend. The nose is nicely defined, although it is showing a lot of unresolved new oak at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannins on the entry. It needs to evolve a little more cohesion in bottle, the finish rather foursquare and missing a little flair. Personally, I would have used less new oak here than the 40%. Drink now-2016.
I have been visiting Jeremy and Alec Seysses at Domaine Dujac for several years now, and it is always one of my favorite ports of call. Alec, looking surprisingly chipper for a new dad had taken time off nappy duty to guide me through the 2011s this year. I have to confess that I was concerned by the conspicuous nature of the new oak on both their negociant label wines and the entry Village Crus. I felt that 35% new oak tended to overwhelm the fruit and terroir and occasionally impart drying finishes, which is why my scores are parsimonious here. As I tasted through the range toward the flock of Grand Crus the oak seemed better assimilated, although I would still maintain that the wine is of such quality that the present level of oak risks being superfluous to requirements. All the negociant label wines were bottled before Christmas.
Importers: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724; Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500
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