Nice currant, blackberry and graphite notes here, with a racy texture. Firms up a touch on the finish, but there's solid fruit throughout. Drink now through 2006. 30,000 cases made. -JM

Aromas of earth, bacon fat and toasty oak lead the wine toward a snappy, young palate that pours on the red fruit, spice and tannins. The finish, however, is a bit more complex, as vanilla cookies and cocoa do an attractive little dance.——M.S.(3/1/2004)—— 88