Fattoria dei Barbi is one of the historic, grandfather estates of the appellation, and this important point comes to mind every time I have the honor of reviewing their new releases. The wines always show a distinctly traditional side that is just part of this estate's DNA, and I'd like to think that this defining characteristic would not change even if a concerted effort was made to do so. Territory speaks loud in the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. The wine offers purity and deep layering with alternating tones of dried cherry, dark spice, cola and crushed flowers. Only 4,000 bottles were made.

Though vibrant and expressing cherry, currant, herb and mineral flavors, this is tannic and locked up for now. Leans to the elegant side, with a dense layer of dusty tannins guarding the finish. Be patient. Best from 2026 through 2043. 3,000 cases made, 2,094 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva captivates with a classic bouquet of dusty dried cherries and strawberries, giving way to cedar shavings, worn leather and rose. This enters the palate silky, pliant and round, yet quickly gains momentum, as brisk acids enliven the red berry fruits and inner spices. A finely etched web of tannins lingers through the finale, where hints of pomegranate, licorice and clove resonate for what seems like a full minute. The Riserva is a selection of the oldest vines from within the Barbi vineyards. It spends three years in a combination of Slavonian oak and 500- to 700-liter tonneaux. Give this another five years of cellaring to truly shine.