The Jadot 2006 Beaune Greves Le Clos Blanc offers a high-toned perfume of hyacinth, honey, fresh grapefruit, and pear distillate. Nutty, stony suggestions impinge on the expansive, polished palate, and this finishes with a slight hint of heat and woodiness, yet with imposing richness and breadth. This does not approach the clarity or layered complexity of the corresponding Bressandes, but may be at an awkward stage, and should in any event be well worth following for at least half a dozen years.
The impressive collection of Jadot 2006s were slow both in their alcoholic fermentation and their malo-lactic evolution, which director Jacques Lardiere considered all to the good when it came to imposing structure and building complexity in wines of such ripeness and relatively high alcohol. In any case, Jadot whites seldom complete their malo-lactic transformation, and if one seeks a vintage to demonstrate the virtues of that approach, surely 2006 is the poster child. Furthermore, anyone who thinks that there are no values left in white Burgundy today has clearly not given Jadot’s wide range the attention it deserves. (These wines were assembled from barrel for my tasting and/or tasted from a range of individual barrels. I have generally made note of those wines not owned by Jadot and its associates by at least indicating whether grapes or juice were purchased.)
Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490 9300