Atlas Peak, now under the ownership of Beam Wine Estates, is reinventing itself. This new wine, by veteran winemaker Darren Procsal, shows promise. It’s a big, dry Cab, not as astringent as in the past but still tannic enough to demand cellaring. Should be better between 2009 and 2015, but it’s a gamble.——S.H.(12/15/2006)—— 87