The superb 2009 Vacqueyras Les Clos (an equal part blend of concrete-aged Grenache and Syrah) boasts a dense purple color along with notes of cassis, blackberries, charcoal, barbecue smoke and Provencal herbs. This meaty, opulent, full-bodied, powerful wine must tip the scales at 15+% alcohol. However, the alcohol, tannins and acidity are well-integrated in this forward, lush wine. It should drink well for 7-8 years given its level of concentration. Christine and Eric Saurel run this biodynamically farmed estate with great passion. It is one of the up-and-coming stars of both Gigondas and Vacqueyras. All four of these Gigondas cuvees are superb. Importers: Vintage ‘59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9215; Ruby Wines, Avon, MA; tel. (508) 588-7007; and Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620