Winemaker Bill Wathan helped found this vineyard, and he understands it as well as anyone. The wine’s alcohol is high, giving it a fat, glyceriney mouthfeel as well as a bit of heat. But there’s no denying the opulence of the blackberry, cherry and currant flavors, and the finish is thoroughly dry. Drink this powerful wine with game, broiled steak or grilled lamb.——S.H.(12/1/2008)—— 91