A pungently smoky, ashen note typical for this grape variety hangs over the glass of Abacela 2009 Tempranillo, along with intimations of the blackberry and dark cherry that inform a ripe, lush and expansive palate. Szechuan pepper, tobacco, ash and stone lend interest and incisive energy to a lingering and satisfyingly juicy finish in which mocha and caramel offer the only hints of the wine’s 20% new (and 37% once-used) barrels. I suspect that this will show well through at least 2020. Abacela in southern Oregon’s Umpqua Valley illustrates a diversity of soils as well as exposures ranging from southerly to northerly, all of which no doubt supplies grist for the academic mill of Greg Jones, whose parents founded this estate, and who has become the go-to climatologist in matters vinous well beyond Oregon’s borders. Tel. (541) 679-6642

A portion of this is estate grown, the rest sourced from neighboring southern Oregon vineyards. Harvested at just 24 brix, it’s an elegant style, with plenty of tart wild berry flavors, and alcohol under 14%. Just a bare hint of new oak adds a nice toasty note to a black cherry finish. ——P.G.(3/1/2011)—— 88

Abacela was founded on the premise that this unique site in central Oregon was perfectly suited to Tempranillo, and they have done an excellent job of proving themselves right. The complex aromas suggest cedar and mint, raspberries and blue fruits. The wine is tart and the tannins tight; it seems quite youthful and hard. Surely a wine to cellar for up to a decade. ——P.G.(9/1/2006)—— 88

The winery has staked its reputation on Tempranillo of all things, and consistently over a half dozen vintages it has surprised and delighted me with the results. Good color for this pale grape, and decent varietal character, though the estate bottling is clearly superior. ——P.G.(8/1/2005)—— 87