The flagship 2005 Kripta Gran Reserva Brut Nature displays a splendid, already complex bouquet of mineral, baking spices, brioche, spring flowers, and green apple. Crisp, dry, vibrant, and full-flavored, it may evolve for a few years but there is no reason to delay gratification. It compares favorably with many of the top vintage Champagnes. Agusti Torello Mata is one of Spain’s finest Cava producers. Only 20% of the estate’s production is exported; they are all vintage dated and carry the disgorgement date on the back label. Importer: Casa Ventura, Bellingham, WA; www.casaventuraimports.com

The tete de cuvee is the 2003 Kripta Gran Reserva Brut Nature. It is packaged in a bottle with a rounded bottom designed so that it cannot be placed on the table. It receives extended bottle aging and is sourced from the estate’s oldest vineyards. It offers up a refined, complex, delicate bouquet, persistent small bubbles, mouth-filling flavors, and exceptional length. Impeccably balanced and with a seductive finish, it can compete with the best of Champagne. The Agusti Torello Mata Cavas rank with the best I have tasted. Eighty percent of the production is sold in Spain; only 20% is exported. They are all vintage dated and have the disgorgement date on the back label. Their two entry level Cavas were reviewed in Issue 181, Spain’s Top 100 Values. Importer: Casa Ventura, Bellingham, WA; tel. (360) 303-1760