The 2004 Barolo Riserva Voghera Brea comes across as quite classic. Red fruits, iron, dried rose, smoke, licorice and tobacco are just some of the nuances that can be found in this wonderful, complex Barolo. Stylistically, the Riserva shows slightly oxidative (but not at all unpleasant) aromas and flavors that recall a more traditional style of Barolo than is typically found at Azelia. Still, I loved the Riserva for its superb balance, expansive fruit and compelling, powerful personality. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. Proprietor Luigi Scavino doesn’t get anywhere near the attention he deserves, but make no mistake about it, his top Barolos play in the same league with Piedmont’s elite bottlings. The Barolos see malolactic fermentation and aging in French oak barriques, although the Margheria is aged in medium-size French oak barrels. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

This is only the second vintage ever produced of this wine, the first being 2000. Pale ruby-brick colour. Incredible nose – intense aromas of rose oil, violets, freshly crushed cherries, dark chocolate with the slightest whiff of game and forest floor. The palate is rich, concentrated, full bodied, with tons of red cherry fruit and layers of earthy complexity. Medium to high acidity and a medium to firm level of very finely grained tannins. This wine is still youthful in fruit profile though the extra maturation afforded undoubtedly contributes to its accessibility at this stage. Very long finish. Drink now to 2020. Tasted June 2009.

The 2000 Barolo Riserva Voghera-Brea presents aromas of licorice, roses and tar. Deeply colored, it is a wine of notable concentration, with notes of dense sweet fruit, minerals and scorched earth, finishing with good persistence, although it lacks the multi-layered complexity of the 2001s. Like so many wines of the vintage it is drinking well today. 2000 is the first vintage of this wine, which is made from a newly acquired parcel of old vines in Serralunga. Azelia has also produced this Riserva in vintages 2001 and 2004. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2015. Luigi Scavino may be less well known than some of his more famous neighbors, but make no mistake about it, the wines from Scavino’s estate, Azelia, can hold their own with the very best of the region. The wines combine power and elegance with a level of virtuosity matched by few in the region. Although the wines show much concentration and oak influence, there can be no doubt that the overall balance and sense of proportion of these wines is excellent. “My dream is to make a wine that is great today, but that will be even better in 10 years and in 20 years,” says Scavino. Speaking of his 2001s, Scavino says, “I prefer 2001 to 2000, it was a vintage with less heat, so the wines are fresher and more typical?more ‘Piedmontese’ if you will.” A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411