If you’re used to the aroma of Napa and Sonoma Cab, the first whiff of minty white pepper tells you we’re in a cool climate. About half of the grapes are from Santa Ynez Valley, with a good chunk from Monterey. The wine itself is firmly structured and fairly acidic, with cherry jam flavors and some flashy new oak. ——S.H.(12/1/2006)—— 86