The 2008 “CALDA BORDALEZA” is, not surprisingly, a Bordeaux blend—45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 25% Petit Verdot. Like most of Campolargo’s wines here, this has a lot of acidity and an elegant mid-palate. Not overly concentrated, this is still a little more tightly wound than most, slightly austere, rather crisp early on. It comes around well, though, drinking nicely and coming into balance, but eventually thinning and seeming a touch tart. Pleasant enough, in this vintage it needed a little more substance. Drink now-2018. Campolargo is an interesting winery in Bairrada that presents a less traditional face with its various small production bottlings. Manuel Campolargo makes things that are a bit different than the usual fare—Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Bordeaux blends, unusual monovarietals and the like. Modern Bairrada isn’t just about Baga—although they make one of those, too. The wines often provide some nice value, as evidenced by some of the offerings this issue, and the off-the-beaten-track wines often hit the mark.Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155

The 2005 CALDA BORDALEZA is, not surprisingly, a Bordeaux blend, 45% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and a little Petit Verdot (15%). A bit gamey on the nose, this seems full in the mouth and full in flavor on the palate, fresh and a bit exuberant. The tannins are supportive, but well integrated. This is a very nice Bordeaux blend that is a pleasure to drink. I couldn’t decide whether I liked this or the “CC” best in this lineup—the key differences between them may be the gamey notes that pop up here at times and the extra year of age on the CC that makes the Calda Bordaleza seem a bit more exuberant. This drank pretty well the next day, a bit thinner, but still persistent, and seeming very Bordeaux-like. The nose seemed cleaner, too. Drink now-2015. Campolargo is an attractive estate in Bairrada which often focuses more on international grapes and other Portuguese varieties rather than the traditional Baga, making a Bordeaux blend (Calda Bordaleza) and even a Pinot Noir. They are making pretty good use of those international varieties, producing some interesting wines containing Cabernet Sauvignon in particular. Manuel Campolargo, the owner, presents a large array of wines at different price points, often in big, distinctive bottles with long names. I wasn’t so sure how I felt about this estate from early tastings, but I think they have improved and are going to improve even more. There is always a lot of personality evident here, both in terms of whimsy and wine.Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155