More classical with abundant spice and smoke, the 2014 Oscar Tobía Reserva, which is mostly Tempranillo with 7% Graciano, has powerful and pungent flavors with good balance between fruit and oak, clean and very tasty. 57,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in December 2016.

The 2011 Oscar Tobía Reserva showed better balance between fruit and oak, and was halfway between modern and traditional. 42,000 bottles.

The 2009 Oscar Tobia Reserva is Tempranillo with 5% Graciano aged for 26 months in a mix of French and Hungarian oak barrels, but shows much more traditional and serious with the wood neatly folded into the wine, with cigar box aromas and notes of red and black fruit, cinnamon and vanilla and developing some hints of leather, forest floor and truffle. The palate reveals a medium-bodied wine, with clean flavors and a remarkable finish. Great value, Bravo! Drink 2014-2019. Tasting through Oscar Tobia’s collection was great fun, as his wines are different and often surprising. It was like a trip on a roller coaster, especially if you taste without looking at the technical sheets or the back labels, something that when you’re tasting lots of very similar wines, gives you a welcome break. Imported by Patagonia Wine & Imports, Hanahan, SC; tel. (864) 630-6738; and Matinucus Wine LLC, Beverly Hills, FL; www.matinicuswine.com

The 2007 Oscar Tobia Reserva is a blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano that is aged in French and Hungarian oak for 25 months. This Rioja handles the oak in its stride, with pure scents of baked red cherries, blueberry jam, crushed violet and a hint of tangy marmalade. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, ripe, supple tannins that encase the vibrant cranberry and wild strawberry fruit. It builds nicely in the mouth, becoming spicier towards the finish laced with white pepper and white fennel. Stylistically, it sits equidistant between classic and modern style Rioja, embracing the virtues of both. Drink now-2018. Bodegas Tobia is an artisan winery based in San Asensio. Oscar Tobia, together with Ana Costello, resurrected the old family bodega that is now equipped with stainless steel tanks. Here, the carbon dioxide resulting from alcoholic fermentation is re-directed to the top of the tank and thus protects the cap from oxidation during pumping over. They also have a policy of picking fruit with higher acidity levels, which came through in their very commendable range of wines. Importer: Steven Berardi Selections, Denver, CO; tel. (303) 838-1963

The 2006 Oscar Tobia Reserva spent 22 months in oak. Elegant on the palate with just enough fruit for balance, it will provide pleasant drinking through 2016. Importer: Vinos Unico, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 385-2846