From a cool site in view of Tomales Bay, this is a sharp, austere and nutty wine, whole-cluster pressed and put into neutral French oak. The minerality is the stand-out, with a lithe body and crispness that's hard to deny.

Bright yellow. Sexy, floral-accented aromas of poached pear, melon and buttered toast, with hints of iodine and honey adding complexity. Juicy and penetrating, offering intense orchard fruit flavors and a brighter touch of Meyer lemon. Finishes smooth, smoky and long, with lingering jasmine and chamomile notes.

Dry, brisk in acidity and ripe, this has stimulating minerality that undergirds the fruit flavors of Meyer lemon, lime and guava. But what dominates is the hugeness of size and the richness that goes on and on.