Bokisch remains a small, family-owned brand to watch out of Lodi, a husband and wife team devoted to Spanish and Portuguese varieties they mostly grow themselves. This light, refreshing Albarino has green apple and pear to spare and lovely, dry acidity, its Catalan roots evident in the wine’s overall Old-World style. It screams for seafood. ——V.B.(11/1/2011)—— 89

Albarino is one of those new white wine varieties that’s creating such interest. This wine is dry and crisp and minerally, with honey-infused flavors of citrus fruits, apricots, peaches and wildflowers. It’s a great sipper and so versatile with everything from Mexican to Vietnamese.——S.H.(7/1/2010)—— 88

Looking for something different? Try this very dry, crisp, minerally wine, made from a grape popular in Spain and Portugal. It’s really wonderful, with lemony, flowery flavors and an edge of peach custard. The acidity is terrific.——S.H.(2/1/2007)—— 88

Like a good, unoaked Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is very dry and high in acids, with citrus, apricot and mineral flavors that make you think of oysters. It’s a very good wine, and showcases the enormous possibilities of this variety in California. ——S.H.(12/31/2005)—— 89