Bokisch remains a small, family-owned brand to watch out of Lodi, a husband and wife team devoted to Spanish and Portuguese varieties they mostly grow themselves. This light, refreshing Albarino has green apple and pear to spare and lovely, dry acidity, its Catalan roots evident in the wine’s overall Old-World style. It screams for seafood. ——V.B.(11/1/2011)—— 89