From a tough vintage, the 2011 is a smaller-scaled Pinot Noir revealing a dark plum/garnet color along with a sweet nose of tobacco leaf, underbrush and red and black fruits, and a narrowly constructed, medium-bodied finish. The natural alcohol achieved 14.5%. The 2011 will not be long-lived, so drink it up.

Performing better than it did when first released, the 2010 Pinot Noir Cargasacchi Vineyard finished at 15.4% natural alcohol. It is a large-framed, aromatic, explosively fruity effort offering lots of black currant, raspberry and kirsch fruit intermixed with a notion of licorice. Foresty notes similar to those found in a French grand cru Cotes de Nuits red burgundy can also be found in this cuvee. Its huge perfume, full-bodied richness and sweet tannin suggest it will drink well for another decade.

Generous fruit, acidity and structure all come together beautifully in the 2009 Pinot Noir Cargasacchi. It is arguably the most complex of the 2009 Pinots here. Plush dark cherries, plums, mint and licorice are some of the nuances that flow in this powerful, intense wine. Layers of sweet inner perfume add complexity on the virile finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. No one has done more to carry the banner for the Santa Rita Hills than Greg Brewer and Steve Clifton. Both together at Brewer-Clifton and separately in their other projects, Brewer and Clifton consistently deliver delicious wines that are also deeply thought provoking with regards to the potential these vineyard sites hold. The Pinots in particular are compelling. The 2009 Pinots saw a seven day cold soak and fermentations that lasted a total of 35-40 days, with 100% stems.Tel. (805) 735-9184; Fax (805) 735-9185; www.brewerclifton.com

At 14.7% alcohol, the 2009 comes across as a tightly-knit, narrowly-constructed effort with excellent notes of ripe, sweet and sour cherries, pomegranates and underbrush. Although medium-bodied and long with good acidity, it is never as expressive as its siblings. Drink it up.