A Batard-Montrachet look-alike, the 2003 Chardonnay Ashley’s Vineyard (from a top site owned by Fess Parker) boasts a light gold color as well as a honeyed pineapple, tangerine, lemon butter, and mango-scented perfume. More exotic than its siblings as well as dense and full-bodied with terrific acidity, fruit, and persistence, this expansive, powerful, beautifully delineated effort should age gracefully for a decade. Tel. (805) 452-5609