The appellation is near the western, cooler part of Paso Robles, and the wine’s rich chocolate fudge and creamy cherry and cassis flavors have the requisite acidity and tannins needed to temper them. Almost sweet on the finish, the wine redeems itself with elegance. The high alcohol isn’t really a problem, in terms of balance. ——S.H.(12/15/2006)—— 88