The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru les Lurets was showing just a touch of reduction on the nose, but underneath lie some lively black cherry and blueberry aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit, good depth and fine delineation on the finish. It would benefit from a little more persistence, but otherwise this Volnay is well worth seeking out.

The 2013 Volnay les Lurets has a slightly sullen bouquet with broody dark plum and blackberry fruit that refuse to come out of their shell. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red berry fruit, plenty of freshness, crisp acidity and a slightly chalky, brittle finish that has faint semblances to a Chinon. Enjoy this over 4-6 years.

The 2012 Volnay 1er Cru Lurets, which lies just below Les Caillerets, has a bright floral bouquet with dried petals infusing the red berries. It seems vivacious and feminine. The palate is supple, harmonious and generous in the mouth with fresh raspberry and crushed strawberry notes as well as noticeable stoniness on the terse finish. The length is satisfying rather than remarkable, but it should provide plenty of pleasure once in bottle. Maison Camille Giroud is one of Burgundy’s stalwarts that can trace its roots back to 1886. I became acquainted with their wines in the 1990s and to be truthful they languished behind their peers: rather rustic fare that might have been acceptable in the 1970s, but not any longer. When a group of investors, including Ann Colgin and Joe Wender, bought Camille Giroud in 2002, they sought a young, talented winemaker to take the negociant by the scruff of the neck and kick-start a renaissance. That is exactly what happened when David Croix was hired as regisseur in 2005. Most of the fruit is contracted, though like Albert Bichot across the road, David prefers not to distinguish them from the two crus that are owned by the estate. David manages the vineyards and has summarized his policy: one contracted grower per cru in order to articulate a sense of place. “The wines from Camille Giroud tend to be more delicate than Domaine des Croix,” David explained, “and need less barrel aging. They tend to show red fruit, more cherries than my own wines.” In 2012, there are far fewer crus to choose from since yields were down 50% and some significant contracts, the likes of Latricieres-Chambertin and Corton Clos des Roi, were cancelled in their entirety since there was no fruit, which after all is helpful if you want to make wine. Still, what David Croix has managed to eke out from a challenging season is worth seeking out: refined and feminine wines that make up in freshness what might be missing in complexity. Plus they succeed in expressing their terroir as David always intends. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selections (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Volnay 1er Cru Les Lurets 2011 has a ripe and candied bouquet with potent scents of black cherries, blueberry and a little vanilla emanating from the oak. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet, ripe tannins. Here, the wine is more harmonious and focused than the nose suggests, the finish actually bridled with finesse and harmony. I suspect decanting will improve this wine, especially the aromatics. Indeed, returning after ten minutes it really settles down and attains a sense of completeness.

The 2010 Volnay Les Lurets boasts gorgeous depth and richness in its dark fruit. Sweet floral and licorice notes add complexity and nuance on the mid-palate and finish. There is an element of firmness that needs time to soften. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Winemaker David Croix describes 2010 as being similar to 2002, but with more tension. The harvest started on September 23. About two-thirds of the wines were lightly chaptalized. None of these wines had been racked at the time of my visit in November 2011. Giroud fans will note the addition of two new Volnays to the lineup. I will report on the maison’s 2009s in the April issue. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including Grand Cru Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 974-2500; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640