Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, Giroud's 2014 Corton Grand Cru Clos de Roi has a juicy, fruit-driven bouquet with ample redcurrant, cranberry and wild strawberry notes, although it does not quite deliver the same terroir expression of, say, Domaine de la Vougeraie's Clos de Roi. The palate is medium-bodied with (again) plenty of juicy fruit lending this a fleshy, buxom-like personality. I appreciate the length of this Corton even if it does not quite match the complexity and personality of its peers. Tasted September 2017.

The 2013 Corton Clos de Roi Grand Cru has a perfumed, quite floral bouquet with black cherries, briary and forest-floor scents gently unfolding in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied and showing a little bit of new oak at the moment, although that will be assimilated by the time of bottling. There is good substance here, the acidity nicely judged and the primal finish has good persistence in the mouth. This will be worth checking out once in bottle.

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Corton Grand Cru Clos du Roi from Domaine Camille-Giroud has quite a strong fishy accent on the nose. It is nicely defined with plenty of small black fruit tinged with oyster shell and seaweed. The palate is medium-bodied with supple ripe tannin, well judged acidity and a cohesive, hoisin-tinged finish that just cuts away just a smidgen too quickly. Otherwise this is a Clos du Roi that is well crafted and full of personality.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. This 2011 Corton Clos du Roi errs to the more modern style of Corton, although it is well crafted with strawberry pastilles, raspberry preserve, hints of marmalade and undergrowth. There is something quite stern and aloof about the nose, although that is an attractive trait. The palate is medium-bodied with thick-set tannins, plenty of concentration with a tightly coiled ball of raspberry, black cherry and mulberry fruit. The finish is reserved, distant and perhaps a little charmless compared to the Clos du Roi from La Pousse d’Or, although it has the substance to age well.

The 2010 Corton Clos du Roi is considerably darker and fleshier than the Rognets. Layers of dark red fruit, flowers, licorice and spices are woven together in this ripe, flashy Corton. Personally I prefer the energy of the Rognets, but this is very beautiful, too. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2030. Winemaker David Croix describes 2010 as being similar to 2002, but with more tension. The harvest started on September 23. About two-thirds of the wines were lightly chaptalized. None of these wines had been racked at the time of my visit in November 2011. Giroud fans will note the addition of two new Volnays to the lineup. I will report on the maison’s 2009s in the April issue. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including Grand Cru Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 974-2500; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640