Smoky black tea, jasmine, and bitter black fruits scent the Camille Giroud 2006 Aloxe-Corton Guerets, which originates in at the base of the Corton massif, and is distinctively Corton-like in its restrained, firm, but mouth-filling character and its chalk and stone finishing undertones. Hopefully this will develop further complexity, and should certainly remain satisfying over at least the next 4-5 years. David Croix racked his 2006s into tank earlier than normal in an attempt to preserve the maximum of fruit. (For details about the recent revival of Camille Giroud and about David Croix's approach, readers are referred to reports in issues 160 and 170 respectively. A Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs was too reduced from tank when I last tasted it to adequately access, but it definitely displayed potential and reflected its old vines of a tiny-berried selection; while a Clos Vougeot from purchased fruit was stuck in protracted malo.) A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70

I was blown-away by the Syrah-like 2003 Aloxe-Corton Les Guerets. (Yes, traditionalists will hate the comparison to another grape varietal, but I believe that ripe, well-made wines gain finesse and reveal their place of origin – terroir – in time.) Blackberries, black raspberries, and licorice can be discerned in its explosive aromatics. Medium to full-bodied, it is dense, deep, and palate-staining. Loads of tar-laced black raspberries, licorice, and cherries make up its considerable personality. Produced from a little-known premier cru located below the southern face of the hill of Corton, this decadent beauty possesses a long, fruit-filled finish. Drink it between 2007 and 2016. Becky Wasserman Selection / Le Serbet; French Fax: 011-33-3-80-24-29-70, various American importers, including Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3800