The 2004 Delius (100% Aglianico) is a big, strapping wine loaded with dark, jammy fruit, chocolate, spices, roasted coffee beans and herbs. French oak (100% new) has given the wine an attractive softness and roundness which makes it approachable at a young age. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. Cantina del Taburno is one of Campania’s most promising estates. The winery is a cooperative and quality can be variable, but the top wines compete with the best being made anywhere. Filippo Colandrea is the oenologist. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The 2001 Delius demonstrates that Aglianico does very well indeed in the province of Benevento to the northeast of Naples. A full ruby in color, it shows a ripe, vanilla-laced, berry fruit nose, substantial and vigorous flavors, and the important structure which is part of the patrimony of Aglianico. Only a slight lingering dryness on the finish keeps the score from going higher, and this may disappear with time. Drink: 2005-2012. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The 2000 Delius Aglianico Benevento is made from 100% Aglianico. This internationally-styled wine displays copious aromas of melted chocolate, espresso beans, smoke, black cherries, and currants. While medium-bodied and richly fruity, it lacks complexity. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700; and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411