A pure expression of Negroamaro, the 2011 Patriglione is not an easy wine to understand. You are immediately made aware of its importance and Patriglione is indeed the estate's top-shelf red wine. This is an icon wine for Puglia. This is evident in terms of its concentration and elaborate mouthfeel. The bouquet makes a strong showing with raisin, candied fruit and dried prune.

Taurino’s 2000 Patriglione (Negroamaro) is a quirky wine with tons of personality. This rich, full-bodied red offers plenty of over-ripe plums, prunes and sweet spices, with outstanding length on the palate. It should continue to drink well for another decade. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 1995 Patriglione displays late harvest characteristics of tar, asphalt, bitter cherries, and licorice. Notions of saddle leather, cedar, cheese rind, chocolate, fruit, and earth also are found in the complex aromatics. Dense and rustic, this distinctive/individualistic Italian red carries its 14.5% alcohol with an attitude. It will drink well for 3-4 years. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Made in a late-harvest, Amarone-like style, Taurino's 1994 Patriglione offers scents and flavors of melted asphalt, old saddle leather, licorice, and earth with sweet cherry fruit in the background. Although broad and dense, it is not as interesting, fresh or lively as Taurino's Notarpanaro reviewed in the Best Buy report in issue #136. It takes a cultivated palate to fully appreciate this 1994, hence, readers weaned on modern-styled wines take heed. It should drink well for 3-4 years. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The kinky 1990 Patriglione reveals a mature, garnet/ruby color, and an earthy, late harvest, Amarone-styled nose of coffee, cedar, dried fruits, and roasted nuts. There is evidence of wood, plenty of earthy, dusty-textured flavors, and a spicy finish. It is best served after the meal, by itself, or with hearty Italian cheese. Leonardo LoCascio, Winebow, Inc., 22 Hollywood Ave., Suite C, Hohokus, NJ 07423; telephone number (201) 445-0620; fax (201) 445-9869