The 2009 Serrapetrona Falcotto (Vernaccia Nera) is full of varietal character. A delicious unoaked red, the Falcotto bursts from the glass with cracked black pepper, dark cherries, licorice and spices. Readers who aren't familiar with this indigenous grape may find the Falcotto a bit on the exotic side. The 2008 isn't an immediate or easy wine, but it sure is tasty. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. Fontezoppa is an excellent source for wines that capture the essence of the many varieties - both red and white - that are indigenous in the Marche. Today, the entry-level and mid-tier wines offer the greatest consistency, but I think it is just a matter of time before the higher-end wines are more dialed in. Importer: Soilair Selection, New York, NY; tel. (646) 244-4922

The 2008 Serrapetrona Falcotto is a fleshy wine laced with wild cherries, rosemary, sage, spices and sweet herbs. The Falcotto has just enough density to match the quirkier notes of Vernaccia Nera. A plush finish rounds things out nicely. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. These are the first wines I have tasted from Fontezoppa. Quality is inconsistent throughout the range but the best wines merit attention. Importer: Soilair Selection, New York, NY; tel. (646) 244-4922