This is dense, showing cherry, plum, leather and earth notes, matched to a chewy texture. Just a bit dry on the finish now, but long and elegant. This should come around in time. Best from 2017 through 2025.??–BS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add

The 2008 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a much more austere and stern wine with a stronger sense of structure and acidity at the back. Smoky graphite tones intermingle with dried cherry and cassis. It’s a wine that expresses itself from the inside out, starting with delicate aromas that build in strength as the wine airs in the glass. The polished finish is characterized by lasting notes of tobacco and licorice. Drink: 2016-2026. Caprili gets my “Most Valuable Player of the Year” award, thanks to the amazing showing it gave in my 1999 Brunello di Montalcino retrospective and for the mounting sense of excitement generated by these wines over recent years. Importers: Selected Estates of Europe, www.selectedestates.com; Vinity Wine Company, www.vinitywinecompany.com; Good Earth Wines, www.goodearthwinesltd.com; Haw River Wine Man, www.hawriverwineman.com; Admiralty Beverages, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 289-9600

A fresh version, scented with cherry, berry and wild herbs, with racy acidity driving its pure fruit and tobacco flavors. Elegant and intense, building to a lingering aftertaste of fruit, spice and mineral. Best from 2015 through 2035. 400 cases made, 120 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a gorgeous wine laced with dark cherries, plums, exotic spices, licorice and tobacco. It possesses lovely inner perfume, firm, yet well-integrated tannins and a lovely overall balance. The 2006 Riserva is approachable today for its mid-palate juiciness, but it will be even better in a few years. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Importers: Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, NY; tel. (914) 698-7202; Haw River Wine Man, Burlington, NC; tel. (336) 228-0539; Admiralty Beverage Co. Columbia Distributing Company, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 289-9600; Vinity Wine Company, Emeryville, CA; tel. (510) 601-6010