Caprili’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a pretty, sensual wine graced with layers of dark fruit, menthol, French oak, spices and minerals. Deceptively medium in body, the wine possesses surprising weight that blossoms with time in the glass. Sweet scents of tobacco, leather and licorice add further complexity. Today the tannins are a touch vigorous, so a few years of cellaring seem warranted. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. I was quite taken with these Brunellos from Caprili, a small property located in the southwest corner of Montalcino. The Brunellos are made in a fairly traditional style. The estate favors natural yeasts, lengthy fermentations and aging in Slavonian oak casks. Importers: Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, NY; tel. (914) 698-7202; Haw River Wine Man Inc., Burlington, NC; tel. (336) 228-0539; Vinity Wine Company, Emeryville, CA; tel. (510) 601-6010; Admirality Beverage Co. Columbia Distributing Company, Portland, Oregon; Tel. (503) 289-9600