A barrel selection—which tends to come from the property's oldest (ungrafted) vines—the 2017 Excelsior Pinot Noir spent 18 months in oak, without coming across as overly wooded. Modest hints of pencil shavings accent concentrated cherry and raspberry fruit in this medium to full-bodied effort. Expansive and silky on the palate, it's a clear step up from the regular bottling, boasting increased density, richness, length and complexity.

The 2007 Excelsior Pinot Noir comes from a single block planted mainly to 10X5 clone, all on its own roots. It’s matured for 18 months in French oak, 40% new, and aged for 2 years in bottle prior to release. Medium-deep ruby colored, it gives wonderfully intense earthy/lavender and floral aromas over black cherry fruit, some spice box, damp fallen leaves, humus and a whiff of mocha. Crisp in the mouth with medium-firm fine tannins, this is an infinitely drinkable, medium bodied wine with layers of enticing fruit, spice and savory flavors lingering long into the finish and begging you for another sip. Enjoy it now or cellar it to 2017+. In the heart of Central Otago’s Bannockburn, Steve Green’s vineyards at Carrick may be teenagers, but are already beginning to provide a peek at just what they can produce. There are 22 hectare’s devoted to vines with the plantings taking place in 1994, 1996 and 1997. Jane Docherty has been the winemaker since 2008, taking over from Steve Davies. Owner Steve Green was in the process of negotiating with a new USA importer when I met with him.