This latest vintage from Cascina Bongiovanni delivers a fresh bouquet of airy fruit, red currants, spice, licorice, leather and milk chocolate. Although it’s still young, the wine shows very good integration of oak and will surely improve with time. It’s succulent, powerful and intense in the mouth.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 90

A big, fat, jolly wine with many of the warm, friendly qualities of the ’03 vintage. On the nose it shows dark jammy fruit, coffee and spices. On the palate, it is solid and slightly rustic, with a medium finish although there is a touch of alcohol at the end.——M.G.(12/31/2007)—— 90

Tight and tannic, showing just glimpses of cherries, leather and citrus peel, but gradually opens with air. It’s a bit burly and rustic, and mouthdrying on the finish, but should show greater balance with several years’ age. ——J.C.(11/15/2004)—— 89

A supple, easy-to-drink Barolo that should please consumers looking for immediate gratification. Dried strawberries, cherries and brown sugar aromas and flavors mingle elegantly, finishing soft. Drink now–2010. ——W.E.(4/2/2004)—— 88

At first rubber and tar obscure the dried cherry fruit, but given time, things begin to emerge. There’s firmness and grip, and a meaty flavor throughout. Some salt and chocolate appear on the finish, which is linear and tight.——M.S.(12/15/2003)—— 88