The full-bodied, plush 2019 Hermitage Epsilon boasts notes of cedar, vanilla, grilled plums and roasted meat. Almost creamy on the mid-palate, it finishes long, with hints of mocha and pain grillé. At this stage, it's a big, hedonistic Syrah that just happens to be from Hermitage—will it express more terroir as it ages?

A blend of fruit from L'Ermite and Le Méal, the 2018 Hermitage Epsilon spent 17 months in roughly two-thirds new oak, leaving a cedary stamp on the wine. That woody note complements cassis and mulberry fruit, while allowing hints of star anise and cracked pepper to show through on the nose. The full-bodied palate is plush and supple. Deep and rich, with a velvety-textured finish, this is a wine that may be enjoyed young or aged up to two decades.

Approximately half of the 2017 Hermitage Epsilon comes from L'Ermite, with the balance from Le Méal. Approaching 15% alcohol, it's a full-bodied, densely concentrated effort, with oaky notes of cedar, vanilla and smoked meat joined by almost chocolaty-ripe black cherries. But it does finish long and velvety, so while it's super ripe and amply oaked, it will still have plenty of appeal to many wine lovers. I suspect die-hard traditionalists won't feel the same way.

The cooperative’s top cuvee is the 2015 Hermitage Epsilon, which was bottled in July 2017. It’s aged in plenty of new oak, so if you’re averse to toast, vanilla and brown sugar notes, you may prefer the Gambert de Loche bottling. Nevertheless, this takes that level of plummy fruit concentration and adds an extra layer of richness and generosity. It’s creamy and lush yet should show more structure and terroir expression after a few years of cellaring.

The top wine of the estate is the 2014 Hermitage Epsilon, and there’s just over 100 cases produced. A stunning success in the vintage, it offers textbook, powdered rock-like minerality, black raspberry and cassis to go with a medium to full-bodied, concentrated and pure style on the palate. It shows more and more tannic grip with time in the glass, yet never loses its purity or focus. It will need 4-5 years of cellaring and keep for two or more decades.