The St. Aubin La Chateniere has an oak-dominated nose and a thick, medium-to-full-bodied core of sweet white fruit, anise, and spice flavors. I was concerned about oxidative traits I found. This wine needs to be drunk over the next year or two. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949, and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699.

The floral and perfumed St. Aubin La Chateniere is rich, oily-textured, medium-bodied and filled with minerals, stones, chalk, and traces of honeysuckle. Anticipated maturity: now-2001. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949, and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699.