The 2020 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru Hommage à Jean Morin is brilliant, and one of the real high points of the vintage in the C?te de Nuits. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of wild berries, blood orange, rose petals, exotic spices, peonies, incense and loamy soil, it's full-bodied, layered and muscular, with a deep and multidimensional core of fruit that's framed by rich, powdery tannins and lively acids. Seamless and complete, it's worth a special effort to seek out.

Even more reserved than the Vieilles Vignes bottling, the 2019 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru Hommage à Jean Morin unwinds in the glass with notes of plums, smoky berry fruit, rich soil tones, spices, orange rind and cherries. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's deep and textural, with prodigious reserves of fruit and rich, powdery tannin. Lively and perfumed, I can't wait to revisit it in bottle.