The Etang des Colombes 2007 Corbieres Vieilles Vignes Bicentenaire (a blend of Grenache, Carignan and Mourvedre) displays whiffs of scrubby southern French herbs, smoked game, and high-toned red raspberry. In the mouth, tart fruit is tinged with cocoa powder, salt, and an unanticipated noted of pencil lead, all of which follow into a long, clean, surprisingly mineral finish. I would plan to enjoy this cuvee over the next couple of years. This represents the finest group of wines I have tasted from the Gualco family, and my experience with their wines goes back more than 20 vintages.Christopher Cannan Europvin Selections (various importers), Bordeaux; fax 001-33-5 57-87-43-22

The Etang des Colombes 2006 Corbieres Vieilles Vignes Bicentenaire (a blend of Grenache, Carignan and Mourvedre) displays ripe black raspberry and humus on the nose. Carob, peat, and toasted nut flavors augment the ripe black fruit offered on the palate, with well-knit and refined tannins offering no impediment to a satisfyingly long sweetly-ripe finish.Christopher Cannan Europvin Selections (various importers), Bordeaux; fax 001-33-5 57-87-43-22.