A blend of equal parts Grenache and Syrah, the 2013 Costieres de Nimes la Mourvache lacks a touch of charm and has a fresh, angular bouquet of black cherries, mulberries, dried earth, forest floor. This gives way to a medium-bodied, savory, austere effort that's best drunk with food over the coming 3-4 years.

A big, peppery, meaty and mineral-laced effort, the 2012 Costieres de Nimes la Mourvache is a blend of 50% Grenache and 50% Mourvedre. Ruby/plum colored, it has lots of red and black fruit, underbrush, earth and hints of leather, medium to full-bodied richness and good underlying acidity and tannin. Drink it any time over the coming 7-8 years.

Outstanding, the 2011 Costieres De Nimes La Mourvache's inky purple color is followed by a thrilling bouquet of smoky black fruits, roasted meats, licorice and earth. Also from a single vineyard and comprised of equal parts Mourvedre and Grenache, it is a full-bodied, rich and textured 2011 that has great acidity, fine tannin and a big finish. It too should drink nicely over the coming 5-6 years. Importer: Vanguard Wines LLC - www.vanguardwines.com

Made from equal parts Mourvedre and Grenache, the 2009 Costieres de Nimes La Mourvache’s medium dark ruby color is followed by a big, sweet kiss of blueberry as well as kirsch, white chocolate, earth and spice. The Mourvedre component does not show as strongly in the aromatics and flavors as one would expect given the fact it represents half the blend. Made in a masculine/muscular style, it should age nicely for 5-7 years. This excellent Costieres de Nimes estate has fashioned an impressive portfolio of 2009s. Moreover, as with just about any wine from this appellation, prices are fair, making this a treasure-trove of value.Importer: Paul M. Young Fine Wines, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 232-5199

A more substantial wine, the dense purple-hued 2007 Costieres de Nimes Le Mourvache is a blend of equal parts Mourvedre and Syrah. Abundant aromas of creosote, blueberries, tree bark, mushrooms, new saddle leather, and meat juices emerge from this medium to full-bodied, dense wine along with impressive richness and length. It should drink well for 4-5 years. One of the Costieres de Nimes’s top estates for quality and value, Mas Neuf is run by Luc Baudet. Importers: Barterhouse, New York, NY; tel. (917) 463-3076; and Paul M. Young Fine Wines, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (323) 222-2003