Otis includes the oldest cabernet vines in Washington state, dating back to the 1950s, and has been a Columbia vineyard-designate since 1981. Black pepper and dried sage are its imprints, and Otis always makes a tight, ageworthy wine, not in the currently fashionable ultraripe mode. Lean and herbal, but deep and ageworthy.——P.G.(4/1/2005)—— 91