The 2009 Pinot Noir Wentzel emerges from the glass with heady dark cherries, spices, licorice and new leather. This is one of the more textured 2009s Pinots at Copain. Waves of fruit flow effortlessly to the long, pure finish. The Wentzel is slightly closed at present, but it shows fabulous length and should drink beautifully once the layers of flavor flesh out over time. The finish remains totally soft and inviting. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. This set of wines from Copain and proprietor Wells Guthrie was among the most exciting I tasted from Sonoma this year. Guthrie has decided to release his 2010 Pinots before his 2009s, as he thinks the 2010s will drink better earlier, owing to their mid-weight structures. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010 Pinots, as they had just been bottled at press time. The Pinots are made with fully de-stemmed fruit and are aged in French oak barrels, approximately 25% new. Guthrie uses 50-100% whole clusters for his Syrahs. These are some of the most refined, subtle wines being made in Sonoma today. Stylistically, the wines are a bit more restrained than they have been in the past, as the fruit is now being picked around 23 Brix as opposed to 24 or 24.5, as was the norm a few years back. Guthrie describes 2009 as a cool vintage with a late set but otherwise even ripening for both Pinot and Syrah, with no late rains during the final phase of ripening. Vintage 2010 was much more challenging. Rain and very cold weather were pretty much a constant the entire year. Frost, rain during flowering and a cold summer lowered yields dramatically. Achieving full ripeness was much more of a challenge in 2010 and some of the wines were lightly chaptalized. Tel. (707) 541-7474

The 2006 Pinot Noir Wentzel from the Anderson Valley exhibits some dusty, loamy soil notes, forest floor, red cherries and currants, tart acids, and a distinctive minerality, but the finish is angular and sharp. One of my favorite California wine producers, Wells Guthrie, like a champion truffle-hunting dog, seems to unearth top vineyards for his wines. The other 2006 Pinots I tasted, as well as the 2007s, all seem austere, rather attenuated in the finish, and essentially angular. While obviously less charming and fleshy in their youth, I doubt they will age any better since there is not a whole lot of flesh on them. Part of this can be explained by the vintage of 2006, but that wouldn’t explain the same stylistic orientation of the 2007s. Turning to the 2007s, I think these are overall superior wines because of the better vintage. The 2007 Syrahs range from excellent to outstanding, and this seems to be Wells Guthrie’s strongest suit, as it has been in previous vintages. Tel. (707) 541-7474; Fax (707) 541-7575