The concentrated, powerful 2000 St.-Veran Les Crais has a citrus and stone-scented nose. Medium-bodied and defined, this wine's flavor profile is dominated by minerals, limes, candied lemons, and crisp pears. Projected maturity: now-2008. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.

In 1999, Cordier harvested his 20-year old vines in the St.-Veran Les Crays vineyard in mid-October at a natural potential alcohol of 13.8%. Hints of oak, orange rinds, and spices can be found in its very ripe, fruit-filled nose. Medium-bodied and admirably concentrated on the attack, this wine reveals a fresh stone and pear-flavored personality. It is well-focused, refined, and has a long, nuanced finish. Drink it over the next 5 years. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel (610) 486-0800.