The 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella shows similar elegance that compares to 2006, one of my favorite editions of this beautiful wine. This is indeed an impressive effort with loads of Amarone intensity that is expertly offset by balanced acidity and integrated residual sugar. There’s a touch of sweetness, but it’s not out of place. The wine’s broad mouthfeel is supported by tones of dark chocolate, spice, molasses and sun-dried dates. There’s a firm edge to the tannic backbone that suggests it needs another few years of cellar aging. Drink 2015-2025. Corte Sant’Alda is a flagship estate that makes some of the most opulent and age-worthy wines in Valpolicella. Marinella Camerani and her family farm according to biodynamic principles (they are Demeter-certified), and she likes to remind her visitors that olive and cherry groves are also a big part of the estate identity. Hers is a sustainable azienda agricola (“farming estate”), not just a vineyard, with a 360-degree perspective on all themes related to the land. The distinctive personality of the wines, and the consistent high quality make Corte Sant’Alda an important addition to anyone who collects fine Amarone. Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, www.domaineselect.com

The 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella is an excellent choice for readers who are beginning to discover the reds of Veneto, as stylistically it shows only moderate influence of the drying process. Tar, smoke, licorice and dark cherries come together effortlessly in the glass. The 2008 is impeccable and classy from start to finish. It possesses lovely inner sweetness and fabulous overall balance. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2026. Proprietor Marinella Camerani can be counted on for wines of true character and personality. Organic farming and minimal handling in the cellar are some of the core principles that inform the house style at Corte Sant’Alda. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The estate’s 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella is a beautiful, if very inward, wine at this stage. Firm, sturdy tannins frame perfumed wild cherries, flowers, leather, licorice and spices. From time to time the wine’s inner sweetness makes an appearance, but this remains a reticent Amarone in need of significant bottle age. Smoke, tar and ash add further complexity on the long, building finish. Readers will need to be patient with the estate’s Amarone in 2006, but there is little doubt this will be a magnificent bottle in a few years’ time. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026. This is a sublime set of wines from Corte Sant’Alda. The estate has made notable wines for some time, but this year I was especially struck by the elegance of the entire range. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

Corte Sant’Alda presents an impressive Amarone in 2006 with loads of density and pure aromatic intensity. The wine opens with a dark, inky color and aromas of dark chocolate, cedar wood, toasted almond, black fruit and molasses. ——M.L.(2/1/2011)—— 93

The 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella is a sumptuous, richly-textured wine imbued with notable class in its layers of ripe dark fruit. Despite its depth and richness, the wine shows notable clarity. The style is quite concentrated but the level of sweetness is restrained. Pretty notes of cocoa, espresso and tobacco linger on the long finish. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799