The 2015 Aragonez was aged in a mixture of new to fourth use French oak for 12 months. It comes in at 13.5% alcohol. This is less about fruitiness and more about structure. There's some tannic pop on the finish and a nuanced, purer feel to this wine than some of its oakier and fruitier siblings. That doesn't mean that it doesn't taste good, because it does, but this is a more austere style. It is not overly expressive just now, my only quibble. It might well be entitled to an uptick in time. You can definitely drink this now, but it is just a little tight. It does come around pretty well with aeration. It is good that it was a late release. It should hold for another decade or so.

The 2014 Aragonez was aged in a mixture of new and used oak of varying ages for 12 months (all French, but for 5% or so American). It comes in at 14% alcohol. Surprisingly, the winery says that the 2014s have a "slight deeper palate with more concentration" even after noting "an early harvest with a rapid end, due to the early arrival of September rains." This shows beautifully, understated and graceful. I wouldn't necessarily say it is deep, but it has a fresh, vibrant feel with tasty fruit. The structure does pop up with air, but this is easily approachable in the immediate future. It still shows nice length on the juicy finish, as the lovely fruit washes over the palate. It is easy and appealing. As between this and the Touriga, I had a minor preference here, just because this seemed fresher and the fruit seemed more lifted. I do have my doubts as to how either will repay extended aging. Right now, this is a nice treat that performs very well in a tough year. (Actually, it is kind of hard to resist.) While I do feel its ability to age and improve may give it a ceiling, it seems likely to win many fans as a great food wine in the short to mid-term. If it handles itself well, it just might be entitled to an uptick. Don't hesitate to dive in when it is young, though.

The 2013 Aragonez was aged for 12 Months in a 90/10 mixture of French and American oak (50% new, the rest divided between second- and third-use). It comes in at 14% alcohol. This opens with a refined yet rich feel, the flavor controlled, but notable. It is smooth, fruity and elegant. It did not, perhaps, evolve quite as well as originally anticipated, but it always drank beautifully, showing harmony and balance. It is a perfect table wine, something that will match the food, not overwhelm it.

The 2012 Aragonez was aged for 12 months in French oak, 30% new and 70% in 2nd year barrels. Light in the mid-palate, rather tight and a bit tannic on the finish, this is a pointed Aragonez with more power than flesh. It also has a bit of a eucalyptus nuance in the background, which makes it a bit distinctive at times in flavor profile. Overall, it should make a great food wine and it is quite charming. It is approachable now, but it will do better in 6-12 months.

The 2011 Aragonez was aged for nine months in an 80-20 mixture (50% new, the rest second and third year) of French and American oak. This is surely one of the most charming mono-varietal Aragonez (also known as Tempranillo or Tinta Roriz in other places) bottlings that the winery has produced. Fresh, bright and well-balanced, it has a sunny demeanor and well-integrated parts. The tannins are ripe, but present. They should support the wine well. This bottling happily adds a layer of depth to the Estate Tinto also reviewed this issue. The acidity then gives it a silky feel, vibrancy and a very juicy finish. It’s pretty tasty, too, and its alcohol is well under control (listed at 14%), always allowing it to seem graceful and retain a bit of subtlety rather than seeming ponderous. It’s a lovely performance this year. It is probably my favorite Aragonez yet from the winery. The only remaining test is how well it evolves in the cellar and how long it stays at peak, but I’m pretty sure this elegant Aragonez will have lots of fans if encountered in the short to mid-term. It’s worth leaning up for the moment. There were just 4,600 bottles produced. Drink now-2022. There is a theme in this issue’s red submissions: they mostly tend to be vying for the “best vintage yet” award for the winery. They are well-priced, too. Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155.