目前該機構(gòu)尚無對此酒款的品評記錄。

Fresh pear, lemon, and quince on the nose of Crusius’ 2009 Traiser Rotenfels Riesling Kabinett migrate to a gentle palate with juicy persistence and lip-licking salinity, whose sense of animation, lift, and refreshment makes up for its relative lack of complexity. Peter Crusuis’s 2009 collection perpetuates a welcome trend toward qualitative consistency. Moreover, not only could nobody fault these wines for lack of assertive personalities, several deliver genuinely compelling attraction. That Riesling from this address is generally best enjoyed on the early side reflects traits already exhibited by the wines that served as my own introduction, namely those crafted in the ‘70s and ‘80s under Hans Crusius, whose indefatigable labors and unforgettable wit brought this estate to international prominence, and who died in November, 2009. But Riesling doesn’t have to be enormously long-lived to still be timelessly great.Importer: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642 5500

A Crusius 2008 Traiser Rotenfels Riesling Kabinett is at once overtly sweeter, creamier in texture, and more pronounced in its expression of fresh fruit acidity than the corresponding Kirschheck. Cassis, purple plum, and fresh apple lusciously inform a palate that preserves admirable refreshment in its finish. But the mineral allure (replaced here by a wet stone note) as well as the striking delicacy of the Kirschheck are missing. Still, this will be worth following for 4-6 years, during which its sweetness and acidity may well come into a more dynamic balance. Peter Crusuis’s 2008 collection reflects the soft, sometimes slightly diffuse profile of wines at this address – not just in years with botrytis – which reinforces the gently soothing side of the vintage. Crusius has shown readiness to selectively let wines undergo malolactic transformation or to de-acidify wine or must, and according to him, Anybody who tells you he didn’t de-acidity any Riesling in 2008 is lying. The harvest did not really get going in all seriousness here until November, and while – in Crusius words – I like to be able to draw a line under the vintage at year’s end, I made an exception, and January pickings extended the crop’s Eiswein count to an unprecedented four.Importer: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500

目前該機構(gòu)尚無對此酒款的品評記錄。