The 2007 Cesanese Silene offers up dusty red cherries, tobacco, smoke, spices and leather in a hearty but pleasing style. Cesanese is a grape grown in a tiny part of Lazio outside Rome. It is rarely seen in this country, and this is about as good as it gets. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243