As Barraud's parcel of Pouilly-Fuisse La Verchere now averages over 40 years of age, it satisfies the estate's standard for a Vieilles Vignes designation. The 2000 has buttered mineral aromas and a satin-textured, medium-bodied character. It is flavorful, loaded with pears, and reveals outstanding depth as well as length. This pure, complex wine should be consumed between 2003 and 2010. Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910; the other wines are Peter Vezan Selections (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-65-42-93), various importers including Michael Skurnik in NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Crafted from vines ranging from 45 to 60 years old, the Pouilly-Fuisse La Verchere Vieilles Vignes Reserve displays smoky mineral aromas and an impressive, medium-to-full-bodied, and complex personality. Superbly balanced and precise, this broad and velvety-textured wine is packed with stones, red currants, and flowers. Spicy oak notes can be discerned in its admirable finish. It should be at its best between 1999 and 2004. Daniel Barraud, a hard-working, intelligent and dedicated man, is one of the Maconnais' finest producers. He believes that his 1996s are "more powerful, both in acidity and ripeness" than his '95s and are "magnificently precise and clean." I was blown away by Barraud's '95s (reviewed in issue #110), finding both his En Buland (91) and La Verchere (90+) to be outstanding, but his 1996s are even better. Moreover, these wines are excellent values.Barraud is not a believer in batonnage; his wines obtain their richness from late harvests and extended lees contact in barrel (as opposed to the traditional Maconnais vats). He neither fines nor filters his offerings.Importer: "Reserve" wines are imported exclusively by North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910; the other wines are Peter Vezan Selections (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), various importers including Skurnik in NY.

The Pouilly-Fuisse La Verchere Vieilles Vignes Reserve exhibits a steely, lemony nose, a very good thick texture and great flavors of powerful and very ripe candied fruits. This medium-to-full-bodied gem is quite long and finishes on notes of buttered toast. Drink now-2003. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29.As readers study my report, I hope they notice the number of wines from highly acclaimed villages and vineyards that don't merit the scores the three delicious wines from this domaine received. After harvesting extremely ripe grapes, Daniel Barraud neither fines nor filters his wines and leaves them on their lees for 15 months. They are full-flavored blockbusters and will be considered steals when their prices are compared to those of other white burgundies.Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910.