The provocative nose of cut grass, herbs, grapefruit and gardenia promises much. Unfortunately, the palate can’t quite deliver, with only watery melon and lemon flavors to offer that trail off to a weak but crisp and squeaky-clean finish. Drink up.——W.E.(12/31/2009)—— 84

The 2007 Chardonnay Vat 7 was raised in equal proportions of seasoned oak and stainless steel with some lees stirring. Medium straw-colored, the nose exhibits white peach, apple, and citrus. Made in the friendly style popularized by Kendall-Jackson, the wine has a smooth texture and a fruity finish. Drink it over the next 1-2 years. The wines are discussed in the order in which they were presented by Stephen Webber, manager and winemaker of De Bortoli Wines.Importer: De Bortoli Wines USA, Hoboken, NJ; tel. (201) 714-9700