Pale straw-gold in color, the 2008 Deen Vat 5 Botrytis Semillon has intense aromas of honey drizzled apricots, orange marmalade, musk and preserved lemons. Full, rich and very sweet in the mouth, it has a refreshing acid line to balance and a long honeyed finish. Drink it now to 2017+. Imported by De Bortoli Wines USA Inc.; tel. (201) 714-9700; www.debortoli.com.au

De Bortoli make perhaps the finest botrytis Semillon in Australia, and even this version is a pretty tasty drop. The dried apricot aromas also fold in scents of paraffin, honey, cinnamon and clove, giving it unusual complexity, while the flavors are sweet but balanced by just-adequate acidity. Not for aging, but this is luscious now and over the next few years. ——J.C.(12/15/2008)—— 89