The white 2019 Univers, a pure Palomino from 25-year-old vines, fermented in stainless steel, and they don't use Sherry butts (botas) or flor, trying to show naked wines from the variety and the soils. This is quite varietal, trying to achieve precision, finesse and cleanliness with little intervention and low sulfur, and perhaps it's more difficult in riper years. This still has a moderate 12.5% alcohol despite the year being very dry and the summer marked by the warm Levante winds, and the wine has a soft palate with volume and a sleek texture. I think this is the more varietal of the wines (save for the Moscatel one!) with intense spiciness in the shape of cloves and cumin. It matured for 11 months with lees. 4,160 bottles were filled in July 2020.

I found finesse and precision in the 2018 Univers, which is only 11.5% alcohol and has more freshness and acidity, a paler color and a sharper profile in general. 2018 was a rainy and cold year, even if the summer also had warm winds (poniente) that always mark the year. The wine is varietal and spicy, but the spiciness is softened by some floral and even citrus notes. 4,100 bottles were filled in July 2019. In general, I preferred the 2018s to the 2019s.

The white 2017 Univers is pure Palomino from 20-year-old vines that are organically and biodynamically farmed in the La Platera vineyard in Pago Miraflores in Sanlúcar on albariza soils This is their entry-level Palomino from the California clone, from a single vineyard and bottled after nine months in contact with the lees, which represents quite well what they want to do: dry, unfortified whites that are fresh, salty and tasty, very different from what people are used to from Jerez. They do not really like fortified wines, but some are fermented in sherry casks, from which they might get some of the sherry character, but not this one. They do not want to call themselves "natural" or anything, but they try to do the wines in the most natural way possible without deviations, off aromas or volatility. This is clean and with a mixture of floral and fruit aromas, citrus hints and a yeasty twist. The palate is light and quite fresh (2017 was a very warm year), very tasty and long, and with the umami, almost salty, touch in the finish. The bottle of the 2016 I tasted for background and reference was quite different and showed more oxidative and advanced. 6,000 bottles were filled in May 2018.