The Bursin 2007 Sylvaner Eminence displays black tea and herbal aromas; is satisfyingly juicy with underlying alkalinity; and finishes soothingly and subtly sweet. It displays a bit more brightness than the 2006 but lacks that wine’s nutty depth. I would plan on enjoying this over the next several years, but to be honest I have not yet tasted an Eminence bottling after more than three years, and the project is young.Agathe Bursin – for more about whom consult issue 175 – is one of Alsace’s major emerging talents, as witness her surprisingly fine showing in the difficult 2006 vintage. Bursin’s 2007 vintage Rieslings are comparatively firm, though they may well blossom short-term, and as usual she has scored impressive results with Gewurztraminer.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

The off-dry Bursin 2006 Sylvaner Eminence displays aromas and cooling palate presence of diverse herbs, and low tones of coffee and alkalinity that offer interesting counterpoint. This is richly-textured yet refreshing and satisfyingly long and soothing. I confess to no intuitions as to how I would employ it at table, but would not chance holding it for more than a couple of additional years. Agathe Bursin – for more about whom consult issue 175 – is one of Alsace’s major emerging talents, as witness her surprisingly fine showing in the difficult 2006 vintage. Bursin’s 2007 vintage Rieslings are comparatively firm, though they may well blossom short-term, and as usual she has scored impressive results with Gewurztraminer.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

The 2005 Sylvaner Eminence is from vines in the Zinnkoepfle but not allowed to carry that designation since Sylvaner is deemed ignoble. This wine’s balance is different from that of the “regular” bottling: again, imposingly creamy and rich, but now with a decided element of sweetness that some tasters (this one included) find less than flattering to Sylvaner. That said, there is formidable material here: a dense, rich concentration of baked apple, nut oils, malt, lilac perfume, and wood smoke. Pungent smokiness and bitter suggestions of citrus rind and chalk are pitted against the wine’s rich fruit and sweetness in the finish. Agathe Bursin – whose inaugural vintage was 2000, prior to which her family sold their grapes to the local coop – is one of Alsace’s major emerging talents. Although this widely-traveled young viticultrice (her preferred title) farms fewer only ten acres and is already chronically sold out, she says she does not intend to increase production by more than another third, and then only over the long run. Bursin indicated she had more botrytis in 2005 than in 2004, even though she harvested quite late (and even though this is the opposite experience from that of Mure in neighboring Rouffach) because Westhalten’s clay-poor soils generally retain very little moisture.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29.

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