The newest vintage of Voge's sparkling wine, the 2016 Saint Peray les Bulles d'Alain is now made without any dosage. The nose is tight and restrained, but it's not as toasty as expected after four years en tirage, with hints of Marsanne's "white paste" character and citrus. Round in the mouth but fully dry, with a long, harmonious finish, it's a nice change of pace.

A specialty of the house is the sparkling 2015 Saint Peray les Bulles d'Alain, made entirely from Marsanne and bottled sans dosage. Marked by scents of anise and brioche and backed by citrus and ginger, it's a medium-bodied wine with a fine mousse and a rather broad, lingering finish. It won't make you forget Champagne, but it's a well-made méthode traditionelle sparkler that provides a welcome break from the red wines of Cornas when you're tasting in the region.

A zero-dosage sparkling wine made from Marsanne, Voge's 2014 Saint Peray les Bulles d'Alain features a delicately toasty nose and hints of marshmallow, pear and citrus. It's medium-bodied, crisp and clean, refreshing and completely dry. As this is my first experience tasting it, I've kept the drinking window short so consumers can capitalize on the wine's freshness, but it will be interesting to see how this wine ages.

The 2011 Saint Peray les Bulles d'Alain was the last vintage to be made with a dosage—a minimal two grams per liter. This bottle was disgorged in May 2016. Richer and rounder than the 2016 tasted alongside, it offers pear, melon and citrus notes, a round, ample mouthfeel and a gentle, creamy finish. Drink up.