The medium to full-bodied 2019 Saint Peray Les Pins comes across as slightly more concentrated and powerful than the Les Figuiers bottling, perhaps because there's more Marsanne (70%) in the blend. It's round and charming on the palate, with ripe pear, melon and citrus on the nose and a lingering, harmonious finish.

Gripa's larger-production 2016 Saint Peray Les Pins is impeccably made, but it lacks the drama and excitement of the Les Figuiers. This 70-30 blend of Marsanne and Roussanne is medium-bodied and refreshing, features modest pear and citrus fruit and finishes silky and long, with a lick of wet stone.

The larger production release from St Péray is the 2015 Saint Péray les Pins. It reveals notes of honeyed minerality, salt block, ripe white peach and white flower notes in an ultra-pure, impeccably balanced, seamless package. Readers looking to understanding St Péray and not break the bank are well advised to check this out.

While the entry level white from this appellation, the 2014 Saint-Péray Les Pins is a fabulous wine that readers should purchase by the case. Giving up citrus, white flowers, light minerality and a touch honeysuckle, it’s medium-bodied, pretty and elegant, with striking purity of fruit and a clean, classy finish. I’d drink bottles over the coming 3-4 years, but it will evolve for longer.

Both of the Saint Péray were outstanding and show the potential from this up and coming appellation. The 2013 Saint-Peray Les Pins is a blend of Marsanne and Roussanne that spent 8-9 months in 10% new French oak. Exotic, perfumed and complex, with notes of fresh citrus, lime, mint and orange blossom, it’s medium-bodied, juicy and lively on the palate, with vibrant acidity that comes through on the finish. Drink it over the coming couple of years.