While I understand that its ripeness was exceptional and that it is obviously marked by botrytis, I can’t say I comprehended why Bott chose not to label his 2005 Gewurztraminer Schloesselrebgen Bottrytis L’Exception – from the last grapes he picked that season – as “vendange tardive.” (But, yes, there are three “t”s in “Bottrytis,” so perhaps he simply can’t resist a good play on words!) The aromas of caramelized peach, musk melon and brown spices here are over-ripe, but not actually very obviously botrytis-influenced. On the palate though, this exotic, musky, spicy, oily-textured Gewurztraminer evinces a considerable amount of bitterness only partly covered by its sweetness (75 grams, though admittedly tasting of less). Bott thinks the bitterness is a youthful phase and as much a function of the very chalky terroir in this site as of the condition of the skins at harvest. Young Jean-Christophe Bott is passionate about quality and unafraid to make sacrifices on its behalf. He has adopted a biodynamic regimen in the vineyards and is now holding most of his wines 6-24 months in bottle before release. Clarity and cleanliness run through all of these, and it is encouraging to taste so many Riesling that are uncompromisingly dry (although occasionally bitterness or alcohol intrude). Bott feels capable of encouraging dryness and balance in various ways in the vineyard and the cellar without ever intervening in or attempting to re-start sluggish fermentations. By no means all of the wines I tasted displayed strong personalities, but many of them gave reason to believe – as does Bott’s articulate advocacy – that this will be one of the more talked-about Alsace domains of the coming decade. Given the challenges that so many of his fellow-growers recorded with this variety in 2004, his success in bringing Gewurztraminer to subtly-ennobled ripeness in that vintage – while taking advantage of higher than usual acidities – is especially noteworthy.Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565